Ramses Square, 1956
“Yalla ya bet”
Fatma’s uncle pulled her suddenly to get out of the train station; she opened
her sleepy eyes to see the huge Ramses statue filling the sky. She stumbled
while trying to follow her uncle’s quick steps, and absorb the new scenes and
sounds of Masr. Her first minutes in
Cairo were strange; she could not understand how people live in these high
buildings, how the streets are wide and clean, where is the dust and dirt that
invade her villages alleys. How can women move with such short dresses and no
scarves? Her mother won’t have believed this, but her mother died last week and
as her father wanted to please his new young bride, Fatma had to leave.
The old Nubian butler was always nervous; he believed that I
was stupid, lazy and good for nothing. He kept shouting and cursing, but the
more news about foreigners leaving the country, the more nervous he became.
After few months, our Italian masters left, as Oum el Donia was turning her back to the whole world. I did not
know that I’d miss the piano, their parties and the young lady’s colorful short
dresses that much.
From a house to a house, and from a lady to the other, there
was always the same, “Yalla ya bet” ,
even when she became older her husband made sure to repeat it as much as he
could. It seems that all the people of Cairo don’t have time or don’t care to
remember her name. Fatma forgot her village and her life there, it seems that
her life started when she first stumbled in front of Ramses. Cairo became familiar,
and became home, that poor peasant made her own roots, but she doesn’t know who
won.
Ramses Square, 1981
“Yalla ya bet”
Fatma followed her mother in the crowded streets of Ramses Square. They had to
take two microbuses to reach the square and then walk for a while. She looked
at the crumbling moulds of the buildings; the entrances, the grand staircase,
the stained glass windows and the intricate handrails; these were faint
reminders of Cairo’s Belle Epoque, yet she did not understand. The littered corridors,
flashy colors and blocked balconies did not bother her. All of this was too
good compared to the slum where she lives, an instant concentration of peasants
who wanted to be part of Cairo.
She was squeezed by the crowds and noise, in a narrow room
filled with smoke, half filled tea glasses, flies and endless piles of papers.
Her wedding ceremony will start, but who mentioned a wedding or a ceremony, she
should be grateful that she would get a paper. Her father was clever enough to
find her a dying Saudi husband, who also wanted to take a part of Cairo, and
for him Fatma was white and tender and will be a fresh addition to his
collection of wives. At that time Fatma was not there, as if she was only
watching, she kept gazing at the part she can see of the Ramses statue from the
small window. Fatma did not resist, she
was sure that it’s only a nightmare. Only in nightmares parents sell their
daughters, only in nightmares men import young girls and call this marriage,
only in nightmares one’s life can be ended by a single piece of paper, so she
only has to wake up.
Four years later Fatma returned to the same office, the
smoke, the half filled tea glasses, the flies and the endless piles of paper
were all the same, but the place seemed dirtier and uglier. This time her
parents did not come, only a young girl on her shoulder, this time Fatma is not
watching, she is dying to get another piece of paper to prove that this girl
had a father. After several humiliating hours she had to leave and without
noticing she was whispering, “ Yalla ya
bet”.
Ramses Square, 2010
“Yalla ya bet”
Fatma was shocked, this was the first time to be called a “bet”, but suddenly she realized where she is, a dirty clinic hidden
in one of the alleys near Ramses Square. The rough woman kept shouting “ Yalla, yalla”, it was Fatma’s turn, she
pushed her fear and followed that woman, the butcher had a sick smile, he tried
to comfort her, while the woman was pulling her cloths. His eyes and hands were
eating her body; he believed that he has all the right to taste a bite before
burring the problem. The humiliation was too much for her; his fingers were
creating new scares, and opening the fresh wounds. The disgust and shock were
greater than her fear, she started trembling and shouting, bringing the rough
woman to the scene and ending the butcher’s invasion.
The anesthetic’s strong smell and the cold tools touching
her skin took her back to Mustafa’s first touches. The first and only man to
love, the one who tried to change her character, the way she talks, the way she
dresses and even her feelings. In fact he succeeded only in changing her body.
Fatma gave him everything, the more she gave the more he asked for more.
Dizzy and tired, she put on her clothes slowly, unable to
walk; she had to stay for a while in the crowded reception. The monotonous soundtrack of the women’s
gossips was as painful as the surgery, was she punishing herself. Was it her
fault to love? Or the real fault was that she loved Mustafa. Suffocated by the
thick air of the room and the women’s stares, she dragged her legs and left.
Accompanied by her bitter memories and Mustafa’s words, she walked slowly. Like
a sandy storm, his words were hitting her, “ I won’t marry a girl who’s not a
virgin”, she smiled as she reached the main square, for the first time she
realizes that large mounds of rubbish and some street kids were replacing the
grand statue of Ramses.